On a rainy night during Paris Fashion Week, Seán McGirr presented his first collection as the newly-named creative director of Alexander McQueen. The show took place in an old train station that had been transformed into an urban logistics center, with guests wrapping themselves in highlighter-yellow blankets. McGirr's collection showcased an array of designs, including leather trench coats, denim tailoring, and furry textures in turtleneck tops and cocoon-like coats.
The collection also featured unique twists on classic pieces, such as longer suit jackets with peaked and rounded shoulders, and collared shirts flared up to the waist in a crescent shape. McGirr's debut collection paid homage to McQueen's infamous Birds collection from spring 1995, as well as drawing inspiration from designers like Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, Issey Miyake, John Galliano, and Rick Owens.
Among the standout pieces were studded leather jackets, broad-shouldered pinstripe suits, and fur-textured dresses in mohair and shearling with knitted arms. The collection also included sequined dresses with cascading embellishments and tightly fitting henley tops paired with baggy trousers. However, some felt that the collection lacked the extreme romance associated with former creative director Sarah Burton or the grotesque juxtapositions of the namesake founder, Lee Alexander McQueen.
Opinions about McGirr's debut collection have been divided, with fans of McQueen and Burton expressing their thoughts on the direction of the brand. McGirr himself acknowledges that the collection was meant to provoke a reaction, stating "McQueen is also about aggression, but playful aggression." The online discourse surrounding the collection has been active and engaged, with opinions varying widely. Only time will tell how McGirr will continue to shape the brand while staying true to its history.
Ultimately, meaningful fashion doesn't have to please everyone, but it should evoke strong feelings and thoughts. And McGirr's debut certainly did just that.
